14-01-2026, 15:00 | view 👀:0 | 🙍 oneddl | redaktor: book24h | Rating👍:

Barbarian Days A Surfing Life [#985174]

Name: Barbarian Days A Surfing Life
Author: book24h

Included in President Obama's 2016 Summer Reading List
"Without a doubt, the finest surf book I've ever read . . . " -The New York Times Magazine
Barbarian Days is William Finnegan's memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life.
Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter.
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Barbarian Days A Surfing Life [#985174]

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